8: Peculiar Customs of Nantucket
<< 7: Manners and Customs of Nantucket || 9: Description of Charles-Town; Thoughts on Slavery; on Physical Evil; A Melancholy Scene >>
The manners of the Friends are entirely founded on that simplicity
which is their boast, and their most distinguished characteristic;
and those manners have acquired the authority of laws. Here they are
strongly attached to plainness of dress, as well as to that of
language; insomuch that though some part of it may be ungrammatical,
yet should any person who was born and brought up here, attempt to
speak more correctly, he would be looked upon as a fop or an
innovator. On the other hand, should a stranger come here and adopt
their idiom in all its purity (as they deem it) this accomplishment
would immediately procure him the most cordial reception; and they
would cherish him like an ancient member of their society. So many
impositions have they suffered on this account, that they begin now
indeed to grow more cautious. They are so tenacious of their ancient
habits of industry and frugality, that if any of them were to be
seen with a long coat made of English cloth, on any other than the
first-day (Sunday), he would be greatly ridiculed and censured; he
would be looked upon as a careless spendthrift, whom it would be
unsafe to trust, and in vain to relieve. A few years ago two single-horse chairs were imported from Boston, to the great offence of
these prudent citizens; nothing appeared to them more culpable than
the use of such gaudy painted vehicles, in contempt of the more
useful and more simple single-horse carts of their fathers. This
piece of extravagant and unknown luxury almost caused a schism, and
set every tongue a-going; some predicted the approaching ruin of
those families that had imported them; others feared the dangers of
example; never since the foundation of the town had there happened
anything which so much alarmed this primitive community. One of the
possessors of these profane chairs, filled with repentance, wisely
sent it back to the continent; the other, more obstinate and
perverse, in defiance to all remonstrances, persisted in the use of
his chair until by degrees they became more reconciled to it; though
I observed that the wealthiest and the most respectable people still
go to meeting or to their farms in a single-horse cart with a decent
awning fixed over it: indeed, if you consider their sandy soil, and
the badness of their roads, these appear to be the best contrived
vehicles for this island.
Idleness is the most heinous sin that can be committed in Nantucket:
an idle man would soon be pointed out as an object of compassion:
for idleness is considered as another word for want and hunger. This
principle is so thoroughly well understood, and is become so
universal, so prevailing a prejudice, that literally speaking, they
are never idle. Even if they go to the market-place, which is (if I
may be allowed the expression) the coffee-house of the town, either
to transact business, or to converse with their friends; they always
have a piece of cedar in their hands, and while they are talking,
they will, as it were instinctively, employ themselves in converting
it into something useful, either in making bungs or spoyls for their
oil casks, or other useful articles. I must confess, that I have
never seen more ingenuity in the use of the knife; thus the most
idle moments of their lives become usefully employed. In the many
hours of leisure which their long cruises afford them, they cut and
carve a variety of boxes and pretty toys, in wood, adapted to
different uses; which they bring home as testimonies of remembrance
to their wives or sweethearts. They have showed me a variety of
little bowls and other implements, executed cooper-wise, with the
greatest neatness and elegance. You will be pleased to remember they
are all brought up to the trade of coopers, be their future
intentions or fortunes what they may; therefore almost every man in
this island has always two knives in his pocket, one much larger
than the other; and though they hold everything that is called
fashion in the utmost contempt, yet they are as difficult to please,
and as extravagant in the choice and price of their knives, as any
young buck in Boston would be about his hat, buckles, or coat. As
soon as a knife is injured, or superseded by a more convenient one,
it is carefully laid up in some corner of their desk. I once saw
upwards of fifty thus preserved at Mr.——'s, one of the worthiest
men on this island; and among the whole, there was not one that
perfectly resembled another. As the sea excursions are often very
long, their wives in their absence are necessarily obliged to
transact business, to settle accounts, and in short, to rule and
provide for their families. These circumstances being often
repeated, give women the abilities as well as a taste for that kind
of superintendency, to which, by their prudence and good management,
they seem to be in general very equal. This employment ripens their
judgment, and justly entitles them to a rank superior to that of
other wives; and this is the principal reason why those of Nantucket
as well as those of Montreal [Footnote: Most of the merchants and
young men of Montreal spend the greatest part of their time in
trading with the Indians, at an amazing distance from Canada; and it
often happens that they are three years together absent from home.]
are so fond of society, so affable, and so conversant with the
affairs of the world. The men at their return, weary with the
fatigues of the sea, full of confidence and love, cheerfully give
their consent to every transaction that has happened during their
absence, and all is joy and peace. "Wife, thee hast done well," is
the general approbation they receive, for their application and
industry. What would the men do without the agency of these faithful
mates? The absence of so many of them at particular seasons, leaves
the town quite desolate; and this mournful situation disposes the
women to go to each other's house much oftener than when their
husbands are at home: hence the custom of incessant visiting has
infected every one, and even those whose husbands do not go abroad.
The house is always cleaned before they set out, and with peculiar
alacrity they pursue their intended visit, which consists of a
social chat, a dish of tea, and an hearty supper. When the good man
of the house returns from his labour, he peaceably goes after his
wife and brings her home; meanwhile the young fellows, equally
vigilant, easily find out which is the most convenient house, and
there they assemble with the girls of the neighbourhood. Instead of
cards, musical instruments, or songs, they relate stories of their
whaling voyages, their various sea adventures, and talk of the
different coasts and people they have visited. "The island of
Catharine in the Brazil," says one, "is a very droll island, it is
inhabited by none but men; women are not permitted to come in sight
of it; not a woman is there on the whole island. Who among us is not
glad it is not so here? The Nantucket girls and boys beat the
world." At this innocent sally the titter goes round, they whisper
to one another their spontaneous reflections: puddings, pies, and
custards never fail to be produced on such occasions; for I believe
there never were any people in their circumstances, who live so
well, even to superabundance. As inebriation is unknown, and music,
singing, and dancing, are held in equal detestation, they never
could fill all the vacant hours of their lives without the repast of
the table. Thus these young people sit and talk, and divert
themselves as well as they can; if any one has lately returned from
a cruise, he is generally the speaker of the night; they often all
laugh and talk together, but they are happy, and would not exchange
their pleasures for those of the most brilliant assemblies in
Europe. This lasts until the father and mother return; when all
retire to their respective homes, the men re-conducting the partners
of their affections.
Thus they spend many of the youthful evenings of their lives; no
wonder therefore, that they marry so early. But no sooner have they
undergone this ceremony than they cease to appear so cheerful and
gay; the new rank they hold in the society impresses them with more
serious ideas than were entertained before. The title of master of a
family necessarily requires more solid behaviour and deportment; the
new wife follows in the trammels of Custom, which are as powerful as
the tyranny of fashion; she gradually advises and directs; the new
husband soon goes to sea, he leaves her to learn and exercise the
new government, in which she is entered. Those who stay at home are
full as passive in general, at least with regard to the inferior
departments of the family. But you must not imagine from this
account that the Nantucket wives are turbulent, of high temper, and
difficult to be ruled; on the contrary, the wives of Sherburn in so
doing, comply only with the prevailing custom of the island: the
husbands, equally submissive to the ancient and respectable manners
of their country, submit, without ever suspecting that there can be
any impropriety. Were they to behave otherwise, they would be afraid
of subverting the principles of their society by altering its
ancient rules; thus both parties are perfectly satisfied, and all is
peace and concord. The richest person now in the island owes all his
present prosperity and success to the ingenuity of his wife: this is
a known fact which is well recorded; for while he was performing his
first cruises, she traded with pins and needles, and kept a school.
Afterward she purchased more considerable articles, which she sold
with so much judgment, that she laid the foundation of a system of
business, that she has ever since prosecuted with equal dexterity
and success. She wrote to London, formed connections, and, in short,
became the only ostensible instrument of that house, both at home
and abroad. Who is he in this country, and who is a citizen of
Nantucket or Boston, who does not know Aunt Kesiah? I must tell you
that she is the wife of Mr. C——n, a very respectable man, who,
well pleased with all her schemes, trusts to her judgment, and
relies on her sagacity, with so entire a confidence, as to be
altogether passive to the concerns of his family. They have the best
country seat on the island, at Quayes, where they live with
hospitality, and in perfect union. He seems to be altogether the
contemplative man.
To this dexterity in managing the husband's business whilst he is
absent, the Nantucket wives unite a great deal of industry. They
spin, or cause to be spun in their houses, abundance of wool and
flax; and would be for ever disgraced and looked upon as idlers if
all the family were not clad in good, neat, and sufficient home-spun
cloth. First Days are the only seasons when it is lawful for both
sexes to exhibit some garments of English manufacture; even these
are of the most moderate price, and of the gravest colours: there is
no kind of difference in their dress, they are all clad alike, and
resemble in that respect the members of one family.
A singular custom prevails here among the women, at which I was
greatly surprised; and am really at a loss how to account for the
original cause that has introduced in this primitive society so
remarkable a fashion, or rather so extraordinary a want. They have
adopted these many years the Asiatic custom of taking a dose of
opium every morning; and so deeply rooted is it, that they would be
at a loss how to live without this indulgence; they would rather be
deprived of any necessary than forego their favourite luxury. This
is much more prevailing among the women than the men, few of the
latter having caught the contagion; though the sheriff, whom I may
call the first person in the island, who is an eminent physician
beside, and whom I had the pleasure of being well acquainted with,
has for many years submitted to this custom. He takes three grains
of it every day after breakfast, without the effects of which, he
often told me, he was not able to transact any business.
It is hard to conceive how a people always happy and healthy, in
consequence of the exercise and labour they undergo, never oppressed
with the vapours of idleness, yet should want the fictitious effects
of opium to preserve that cheerfulness to which their temperance,
their climate, their happy situation so justly entitle them. But
where is the society perfectly free from error or folly; the least
imperfect is undoubtedly that where the greatest good preponderates;
and agreeable to this rule, I can truly say, that I never was
acquainted with a less vicious, or more harmless one.
The majority of the present inhabitants are the descendants of the
twenty-seven first proprietors, who patenteed the island; of the
rest, many others have since come over among them, chiefly from the
Massachusetts: here are neither Scotch, Irish, nor French, as is the
case in most other settlements; they are an unmixed English breed.
The consequence of this extended connection is, that they are all in
some degree related to each other: you must not be surprised
therefore when I tell you, that they always call each other cousin,
uncle or aunt; which are become such common appellations, that no
other are made use of in their daily intercourse: you would be
deemed stiff and affected were you to refuse conforming yourself to
this ancient custom, which truly depicts the image of a large
family. The many who reside here that have not the least claim of
relationship with any one in the town, yet by the power of custom
make use of no other address in their conversation. Were you here
yourself but a few days, you would be obliged to adopt the same
phraseology, which is far from being disagreeable, as it implies a
general acquaintance and friendship, which connects them all in
unity and peace.
Their taste for fishing has been so prevailing, that it has
engrossed all their attention, and even prevented them from
introducing some higher degree of perfection in their agriculture.
There are many useful improvements which might have meliorated their
soil; there are many trees which if transplanted here would have
thriven extremely well, and would have served to shelter as well as
decorate the favourite spots they have so carefully manured. The red
cedar, the locust, [Footnote: A species of what we call here the
two-thorn acacia: it yields the most valuable timber we have, and
its shade is very beneficial to the growth and goodness of the
grass.] the button wood, I am persuaded would have grown here
rapidly and to a great size, with many others; but their thoughts
are turned altogether toward the sea. The Indian corn begins to
yield them considerable crops, and the wheat sown on its stocks is
become a very profitable grain; rye will grow with little care; they
might raise if they would, an immense quantity of buck-wheat.
Such an island inhabited as I have described, is not the place where
gay travellers should resort, in order to enjoy that variety of
pleasures the more splendid towns of this continent afford. Not that
they are wholly deprived of what we might call recreations, and
innocent pastimes; but opulence, instead of luxuries and
extravagancies, produces nothing more here than an increase of
business, an additional degree of hospitality, greater neatness in
the preparation of dishes, and better wines. They often walk and
converse with each other, as I have observed before; and upon
extraordinary occasions, will take a ride to Palpus, where there is
an house of entertainment; but these rural amusements are conducted
upon the same plan of moderation, as those in town. They are so
simple as hardly to be described; the pleasure of going and
returning together; of chatting and walking about, of throwing the
bar, heaving stones, etc., are the only entertainments they are
acquainted with. This is all they practise, and all they seem to
desire. The house at Palpus is the general resort of those who
possess the luxury of a horse and chaise, as well as of those who
still retain, as the majority do, a predilection for their primitive
vehicle. By resorting to that place they enjoy a change of air, they
taste the pleasures of exercise; perhaps an exhilarating bowl, not
at all improper in this climate, affords the chief indulgence known
to these people, on the days of their greatest festivity. The
mounting a horse, must afford a most pleasing exercise to those men
who are so much at sea. I was once invited to that house, and had
the satisfaction of conducting thither one of the many beauties of
that island (for it abounds with handsome women) dressed in all the
bewitching attire of the most charming simplicity: like the rest of
the company, she was cheerful without loud laughs, and smiling
without affectation. They all appeared gay without levity. I had
never before in my life seen so much unaffected mirth, mixed with so
much modesty. The pleasures of the day were enjoyed with the
greatest liveliness and the most innocent freedom; no disgusting
pruderies, no coquettish airs tarnished this enlivening assembly:
they behaved according to their native dispositions, the only rules
of decorum with which they were acquainted. What would an European
visitor have done here without a fiddle, without a dance, without
cards? He would have called it an insipid assembly, and ranked this
among the dullest days he bad ever spent. This rural excursion had a
very great affinity to those practised in our province, with this
difference only, that we have no objection to the sportive dance,
though conducted by the rough accents of some self-taught African
fiddler. We returned as happy as we went; and the brightness of the
moon kindly lengthened a day which had past, like other agreeable
ones, with singular rapidity.
In order to view the island in its longest direction from the town,
I took a ride to the easternmost parts of it, remarkable only for
the Pochick Rip, where their best fish are caught. I past by the
Tetoukemah lots, which are the fields of the community; the fences
were made of cedar posts and rails, and looked perfectly straight
and neat; the various crops they enclosed were flourishing: thence I
descended into Barrey's Valley, where the blue and the spear grass
looked more abundant than I had seen on any other part of the
island; thence to Gib's Pond; and arrived at last at Siasconcet.
Several dwellings had been erected on this wild shore, for the
purpose of sheltering the fishermen in the season of fishing; I
found them all empty, except that particular one to which I had been
directed. It was like the others, built on the highest part of the
shore, in the face of the great ocean; the soil appeared to be
composed of no other stratum but sand, covered with a thinly
scattered herbage. What rendered this house still more worthy of
notice in my eyes, was, that it had been built on the ruins of one
of the ancient huts, erected by the first settlers, for observing
the appearance of the whales. Here lived a single family without a
neighbour; I had never before seen a spot better calculated to
cherish contemplative ideas; perfectly unconnected with the great
world, and far removed from its perturbations. The ever raging ocean
was all that presented itself to the view of this family; it
irresistibly attracted my whole attention: my eyes were
involuntarily directed to the horizontal line of that watery
surface, which is ever in motion, and ever threatening destruction
to these shores. My ears were stunned with the roar of its waves
rolling one over the other, as if impelled by a superior force to
overwhelm the spot on which I stood. My nostrils involuntarily
inhaled the saline vapours which arose from the dispersed particles
of the foaming billows, or from the weeds scattered on the shores.
My mind suggested a thousand vague reflections, pleasing in the hour
of their spontaneous birth, but now half forgot, and all indistinct:
and who is the landman that can behold without affright so singular
an element, which by its impetuosity seems to be the destroyer of
this poor planet, yet at particular times accumulates the scattered
fragments and produces islands and continents fit for men to dwell
on! Who can observe the regular vicissitudes of its waters without
astonishment; now swelling themselves in order to penetrate through
every river and opening, and thereby facilitate navigation; at other
times retiring from the shores, to permit man to collect that
variety of shell fish which is the support of the poor? Who can see
the storms of wind, blowing sometimes with an impetuosity
sufficiently strong even to move the earth, without feeling himself
affected beyond the sphere of common ideas? Can this wind which but
a few days ago refreshed our American fields, and cooled us in the
shade, be the same element which now and then so powerfully
convulses the waters of the sea, dismasts vessels, causes so many
shipwrecks, and such extensive desolations? How diminutive does a
man appear to himself when filled with these thoughts, and standing
as I did on the verge of the ocean! This family lived entirely by
fishing, for the plough has not dared yet to disturb the parched
surface of the neighbouring plain; and to what purpose could this
operation be performed! Where is it that mankind will not find
safety, peace, and abundance, with freedom and civil happiness?
Nothing was wanting here to make this a most philosophical retreat,
but a few ancient trees, to shelter contemplation in its beloved
solitude. There I saw a numerous family of children of various ages-
-the blessings of an early marriage; they were ruddy as the cherry,
healthy as the fish they lived on, hardy as the pine knots: the
eldest were already able to encounter the boisterous waves, and
shuddered not at their approach; early initiating themselves in the
mysteries of that seafaring career, for which they were all
intended: the younger, timid as yet, on the edge of a less agitated
pool, were teaching themselves with nut-shells and pieces of wood,
in imitation of boats, how to navigate in a future day the larger
vessels of their father, through a rougher and deeper ocean. I
stayed two days there on purpose to become acquainted with the
different branches of their economy, and their manner of living in
this singular retreat. The clams, the oysters of the shores, with
the addition of Indian Dumplings, [Footnote: Indian Dumplings are a
peculiar preparation of Indian meal, boiled in large lumps.]
constituted their daily and most substantial food. Larger fish were
often caught on the neighbouring rip; these afforded them their
greatest dainties; they had likewise plenty of smoked bacon. The
noise of the wheels announced the industry of the mother and
daughters; one of them had been bred a weaver, and having a loom in
the house, found means of clothing the whole family; they were
perfectly at ease, and seemed to want for nothing. I found very few
books among these people, who have very little time for reading; the
Bible and a few school tracts, both in the Nattick and English
languages, constituted their most numerous libraries. I saw indeed
several copies of Hudibras, and Josephus; but no one knows who first
imported them. It is something extraordinary to see this people,
professedly so grave, and strangers to every branch of literature,
reading with pleasure the former work, which should seem to require
some degree of taste, and antecedent historical knowledge. They all
read it much, and can by memory repeat many passages; which yet I
could not discover that they understood the beauties of. Is it not a
little singular to see these books in the hands of fishermen, who
are perfect strangers almost to any other? Josephus's history is
indeed intelligible, and much fitter for their modes of education
and taste; as it describes the history of a people from whom we have
received the prophecies which we believe, and the religious laws
which we follow.
Learned travellers, returned from seeing the paintings and
antiquities of Rome and Italy, still filled with the admiration and
reverence they inspire, would hardly be persuaded that so
contemptible a spot, which contains nothing remarkable but the
genius and the industry of its inhabitants, could ever be an object
worthy attention. But I, having never seen the beauties which Europe
contains, cheerfully satisfy myself with attentively examining what
my native country exhibits: if we have neither ancient
amphitheatres, gilded palaces, nor elevated spires; we enjoy in our
woods a substantial happiness which the wonders of art cannot
communicate. None among us suffer oppression either from government
or religion; there are very few poor except the idle, and
fortunately the force of example, and the most ample encouragement,
soon create a new principle of activity, which had been extinguished
perhaps in their native country, for want of those opportunities
which so often compel honest Europeans to seek shelter among us. The
means of procuring subsistence in Europe are limited; the army may
be full, the navy may abound with seamen, the land perhaps wants no
additional labourers, the manufacturer is overcharged with
supernumerary hands; what then must become of the unemployed? Here,
on the contrary, human industry has acquired a boundless field to
exert itself in—a field which will not be fully cultivated in many
ages!
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