4: In Cowboy Land
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Though I had previously made a trip into the then Territory of Dakota,
beyond the Red River, it was not until 1883 that I went to the Little
Missouri, and there took hold of two cattle ranches, the Chimney Butte
and the Elkhorn.
It was still the Wild West in those days, the Far West, the West of
Owen Wister's stories and Frederic Remington's drawings, the West of
the Indian and the buffalo-hunter, the soldier and the cow-puncher.
That land of the West has gone now, "gone, gone with lost Atlantis,"
gone to the isle of ghosts and of strange dead memories. It was a land
of vast silent spaces, of lonely rivers, and of plains where the wild
game stared at the passing horseman. It was a land of scattered
ranches, of herds of long-horned cattle, and of reckless riders who
unmoved looked in the eyes of life or of death. In that land we led a
free and hardy life, with horse and with rifle. We worked under the
scorching midsummer sun, when the wide plains shimmered and wavered in
the heat; and we knew the freezing misery of riding night guard round
the cattle in the late fall round-up. In the soft springtime the stars
were glorious in our eyes each night before we fell asleep; and in the
winter we rode through blinding blizzards, when the driven snow-dust
burned our faces. There were monotonous days, as we guided the trail
cattle or the beef herds, hour after hour, at the slowest of walks;
and minutes or hours teeming with excitement as we stopped stampedes
or swam the herds across rivers treacherous with quicksands or brimmed
with running ice. We knew toil and hardship and hunger and thirst; and
we saw men die violent deaths as they worked among the horses and
cattle, or fought in evil feuds with one another; but we felt the beat
of hardy life in our veins, and ours was the glory of work and the joy
of living.
It was right and necessary that this life should pass, for the safety
of our country lies in its being made the country of the small home-
maker. The great unfenced ranches, in the days of "free grass,"
necessarily represented a temporary stage in our history. The large
migratory flocks of sheep, each guarded by the hired shepherds of
absentee owners, were the first enemies of the cattlemen; and owing to
the way they ate out the grass and destroyed all other vegetation,
these roving sheep bands represented little of permanent good to the
country. But the homesteaders, the permanent settlers, the men who
took up each his own farm on which he lived and brought up his family,
these represented from the National standpoint the most desirable of
all possible users of, and dwellers on, the soil. Their advent meant
the breaking up of the big ranches; and the change was a National
gain, although to some of us an individual loss.
I first reached the Little Missouri on a Northern Pacific train about
three in the morning of a cool September day in 1883. Aside from the
station, the only building was a ramshackle structure called the
Pyramid Park Hotel. I dragged my duffle-bag thither, and hammered at
the door until the frowsy proprietor appeared, muttering oaths. He
ushered me upstairs, where I was given one of the fourteen beds in the
room which by itself constituted the entire upper floor. Next day I
walked over to the abandoned army post, and, after some hours among
the gray log shacks, a ranchman who had driven into the station agreed
to take me out to his ranch, the Chimney Butte ranch, where he was
living with his brother and their partner.
The ranch was a log structure with a dirt roof, a corral for the
horses near by, and a chicken-house jabbed against the rear of the
ranch house. Inside there was only one room, with a table, three or
four chairs, a cooking-stove, and three bunks. The owners were Sylvane
and Joe Ferris and William J. Merrifield. Later all three of them held
my commissions while I was President. Merrifield was Marshal of
Montana, and as Presidential elector cast the vote of that State for
me in 1904; Sylvane Ferris was Land Officer in North Dakota, and Joe
Ferris Postmaster at Medora. There was a fourth man, George Meyer, who
also worked for me later. That evening we all played old sledge round
the table, and at one period the game was interrupted by a frightful
squawking outside which told us that a bobcat had made a raid on the
chicken-house.
After a buffalo hunt with my original friend, Joe Ferris, I entered
into partnership with Merrifield and Sylvane Ferris, and we started a
cow ranch, with the maltese cross brand—always known as "maltee
cross," by the way, as the general impression along the Little
Missouri was that "maltese" must be a plural. Twenty-nine years later
my four friends of that night were delegates to the First Progressive
National Convention at Chicago. They were among my most constant
companions for the few years next succeeding the evening when the
bobcat interrupted the game of old sledge. I lived and worked with
them on the ranch, and with them and many others like them on the
round-up; and I brought out from Maine, in order to start the Elkhorn
ranch lower down the river, my two backwoods friends Sewall and Dow.
My brands for the lower ranch were the elkhorn and triangle.
I do not believe there ever was any life more attractive to a vigorous
young fellow than life on a cattle ranch in those days. It was a fine,
healthy life, too; it taught a man self-reliance, hardihood, and the
value of instant decision—in short, the virtues that ought to come
from life in the open country. I enjoyed the life to the full. After
the first year I built on the Elkhorn ranch a long, low ranch house of
hewn logs, with a veranda, and with, in addition to the other rooms, a
bedroom for myself, and a sitting-room with a big fire-place. I got
out a rocking-chair—I am very fond of rocking-chairs—and enough
books to fill two or three shelves, and a rubber bathtub so that I
could get a bath. And then I do not see how any one could have lived
more comfortably. We had buffalo robes and bearskins of our own
killing. We always kept the house clean—using the word in a rather
large sense. There were at least two rooms that were always warm, even
in the bitterest weather; and we had plenty to eat. Commonly the
mainstay of every meal was game of our own killing, usually antelope
or deer, sometimes grouse or ducks, and occasionally, in the earlier
days, buffalo or elk. We also had flour and bacon, sugar, salt, and
canned tomatoes. And later, when some of the men married and brought
out their wives, we had all kinds of good things, such as jams and
jellies made from the wild plums and the buffalo berries, and potatoes
from the forlorn little garden patch. Moreover, we had milk. Most
ranchmen at that time never had milk. I knew more than one ranch with
ten thousand head of cattle where there was not a cow that could be
milked. We made up our minds that we would be more enterprising.
Accordingly, we started to domesticate some of the cows. Our first
effort was not successful, chiefly because we did not devote the
needed time and patience to the matter. And we found that to race a
cow two miles at full speed on horseback, then rope her, throw her,
and turn her upside down to milk her, while exhilarating as a pastime,
was not productive of results. Gradually we accumulated tame cows,
and, after we had thinned out the bobcats and coyotes, more chickens.
The ranch house stood on the brink of a low bluff overlooking the
broad, shallow bed of the Little Missouri, through which at most
seasons there ran only a trickle of water, while in times of freshet
it was filled brimful with the boiling, foaming, muddy torrent. There
was no neighbor for ten or fifteen miles on either side of me. The
river twisted down in long curves between narrow bottoms bordered by
sheer cliff walls, for the Bad Lands, a chaos of peaks, plateaus, and
ridges, rose abruptly from the edges of the level, tree-clad, or
grassy, alluvial meadows. In front of the ranch-house veranda was a
row of cottonwood trees with gray-green leaves which quivered all day
long if there was a breath of air. From these trees came the far-away,
melancholy cooing of mourning doves, and little owls perched in them
and called tremulously at night. In the long summer afternoons we
would sometimes sit on the piazza, when there was no work to be done,
for an hour or two at a time, watching the cattle on the sand-bars,
and the sharply channeled and strangely carved amphitheater of cliffs
across the bottom opposite; while the vultures wheeled overhead, their
black shadows gliding across the glaring white of the dry river-bed.
Sometimes from the ranch we saw deer, and once when we needed meat I
shot one across the river as I stood on the piazza. In the winter, in
the days of iron cold, when everything was white under the snow, the
river lay in its bed fixed and immovable as a bar of bent steel, and
then at night wolves and lynxes traveled up and down it as if it had
been a highway passing in front of the ranch house. Often in the late
fall or early winter, after a hard day's hunting, or when returning
from one of the winter line camps, we did not reach the ranch until
hours after sunset; and after the weary tramping in the cold it was
keen pleasure to catch the first red gleam of the fire-lit windows
across the snowy wastes.
The Elkhorn ranch house was built mainly by Sewall and Dow, who, like
most men from the Maine woods, were mighty with the ax. I could chop
fairly well for an amateur, but I could not do one-third the work they
could. One day when we were cutting down the cottonwood trees, to
begin our building operations, I heard some one ask Dow what the total
cut had been, and Dow not realizing that I was within hearing,
answered: "Well, Bill cut down fifty-three, I cut forty-nine, and the
boss he beavered down seventeen." Those who have seen the stump of a
tree which has been gnawed down by a beaver will understand the exact
force of the comparison.
In those days on a cow ranch the men were apt to be away on the
various round-ups at least half the time. It was interesting and
exciting work, and except for the lack of sleep on the spring and
summer round-ups it was not exhausting work; compared to lumbering or
mining or blacksmithing, to sit in the saddle is an easy form of
labor. The ponies were of course grass-fed and unshod. Each man had
his own string of nine or ten. One pony would be used for the morning
work, one for the afternoon, and neither would again be used for the
next three days. A separate pony was kept for night riding.
The spring and early summer round-ups were especially for the branding
of calves. There was much hard work and some risk on a round-up, but
also much fun. The meeting-place was appointed weeks beforehand, and
all the ranchmen of the territory to be covered by the round-up sent
their representatives. There were no fences in the West that I knew,
and their place was taken by the cowboy and the branding-iron. The
cattle wandered free. Each calf was branded with the brand of the cow
it was following. Sometimes in winter there was what we called line
riding; that is, camps were established and the line riders traveled a
definite beat across the desolate wastes of snow, to and fro from one
camp to another, to prevent the cattle from drifting. But as a rule
nothing was done to keep the cattle in any one place. In the spring
there was a general round-up in each locality. Each outfit took part
in its own round-up, and all the outfits of a given region combined to
send representatives to the two or three round-ups that covered the
neighborhoods near by into which their cattle might drift. For
example, our Little Missouri round-up generally worked down the river
from a distance of some fifty or sixty miles above my ranch toward the
Kildeer Mountains, about the same distance below. In addition we would
usually send representatives to the Yellowstone round-up, and to the
round-up along the upper Little Missouri; and, moreover, if we heard
that cattle had drifted, perhaps toward the Indian reservation
southeast of us, we would send a wagon and rider after them.
At the meeting-point, which might be in the valley of a half-dry
stream, or in some broad bottom of the river itself, or perchance by a
couple of ponds under some queerly shaped butte that was a landmark
for the region round about, we would all gather on the appointed day.
The chuck-wagons, containing the bedding and food, each drawn by four
horses and driven by the teamster cook, would come jolting and
rattling over the uneven sward. Accompanying each wagon were eight or
ten riders, the cow-punchers, while their horses, a band of a hundred
or so, were driven by the two herders, one of whom was known as the
day wrangler and one as the night wrangler. The men were lean, sinewy
fellows, accustomed to riding half-broken horses at any speed over any
country by day or by night. They wore flannel shirts, with loose
handkerchiefs knotted round their necks, broad hats, high-heeled boots
with jingling spurs, and sometimes leather shaps, although often they
merely had their trousers tucked into the tops of their high boots.
There was a good deal of rough horse-play, and, as with any other
gathering of men or boys of high animal spirits, the horse-play
sometimes became very rough indeed; and as the men usually carried
revolvers, and as there were occasionally one or two noted gun-
fighters among them, there was now and then a shooting affray. A man
who was a coward or who shirked his work had a bad time, of course; a
man could not afford to let himself be bullied or treated as a butt;
and, on the other hand, if he was "looking for a fight," he was
certain to find it. But my own experience was that if a man did not
talk until his associates knew him well and liked him, and if he did
his work, he never had any difficulty in getting on. In my own round-
up district I speedily grew to be friends with most of the men. When I
went among strangers I always had to spend twenty-four hours in living
down the fact that I wore spectacles, remaining as long as I could
judiciously deaf to any side remarks about "four eyes," unless it
became evident that my being quiet was misconstrued and that it was
better to bring matters to a head at once.
If, for instance, I was sent off to represent the Little Missouri
brands on some neighboring round-up, such as the Yellowstone, I
usually showed that kind of diplomacy which consists in not uttering
one word that can be avoided. I would probably have a couple of days'
solitary ride, mounted on one horse and driving eight or ten others
before me, one of them carrying my bedding. Loose horses drive best at
a trot, or canter, and if a man is traveling alone in this fashion it
is a good thing to have them reach the camp ground sufficiently late
to make them desire to feed and sleep where they are until morning. In
consequence I never spent more than two days on the journey from
whatever the point was at which I left the Little Missouri, sleeping
the one night for as limited a number of hours as possible.
As soon as I reached the meeting-place I would find out the wagon to
which I was assigned. Riding to it, I turned my horses into the
saddle-band and reported to the wagon boss, or, in his absence, to the
cook—always a privileged character, who was allowed and expected to
order men around. He would usually grumble savagely and profanely
about my having been put with his wagon, but this was merely
conventional on his part; and if I sat down and said nothing he would
probably soon ask me if I wanted anything to eat, to which the correct
answer was that I was not hungry and would wait until meal-time. The
bedding rolls of the riders would be strewn round the grass, and I
would put mine down a little outside the ring, where I would not be in
any one's way, with my six or eight branding-irons beside it. The men
would ride in, laughing and talking with one another, and perhaps
nodding to me. One of their number, usually the wagon foreman, might
put some question to me as to what brands I represented, but no other
word would be addressed to me, nor would I be expected to volunteer
any conversation. Supper would consist of bacon, Dutch oven bread, and
possibly beef; once I won the good graces of my companions at the
outset by appearing with two antelope which I had shot. After supper I
would roll up in my bedding as soon as possible, and the others would
follow suit at their pleasure.
At three in the morning or thereabouts, at a yell from the cook, all
hands would turn hurriedly out. Dressing was a simple affair. Then
each man rolled and corded his bedding—if he did not, the cook would
leave it behind and he would go without any for the rest of the trip—
and came to the fire, where he picked out a tin cup, tin plate, and
knife and fork, helped himself to coffee and to whatever food there
was, and ate it standing or squatting as best suited him. Dawn was
probably breaking by this time, and the trampling of unshod hoofs
showed that the night wrangler was bringing in the pony herd. Two of
the men would then run ropes from the wagon at right angles to one
another, and into this as a corral the horses would be driven. Each
man might rope one of his own horses, or more often point it out to
the most skillful roper of the outfit, who would rope it for him—for
if the man was an unskillful roper and roped the wrong horse or roped
the horse in the wrong place there was a chance of the whole herd
stampeding. Each man then saddled and bridled his horse. This was
usually followed by some resolute bucking on the part of two or three
of the horses, especially in the early days of each round-up. The
bucking was always a source of amusement to all the men whose horses
did not buck, and these fortunate ones would gather round giving
ironical advice, and especially adjuring the rider not to "go to
leather"—that is, not to steady himself in the saddle by catching
hold of the saddle-horn.
As soon as the men had mounted, the whole outfit started on the long
circle, the morning circle. Usually the ranch foreman who bossed a
given wagon was put in charge of the men of one group by the round-up
foreman; he might keep his men together until they had gone some ten
or fifteen miles from camp, and then drop them in couples at different
points. Each couple made its way toward the wagon, gathering all the
cattle it could find. The morning's ride might last six or eight
hours, and it was still longer before some of the men got in. Singly
and in twos and threes they appeared from every quarter of the
horizon, the dust rising from the hoofs of the steers and bulls, the
cows and calves, they had collected. Two or three of the men were left
to take care of the herd while the others changed horses, ate a hasty
dinner, and then came out to the afternoon work. This consisted of
each man in succession being sent into the herd, usually with a
companion, to cut out the cows of his brand or brands which were
followed by unbranded calves, and also to cut out any mavericks or
unbranded yearlings. We worked each animal gently out to the edge of
the herd, and then with a sudden dash took it off at a run. It was
always desperately anxious to break back and rejoin the herd. There
was much breakneck galloping and twisting and turning before its
desire was thwarted and it was driven to join the rest of the cut—
that is, the other animals which had been cut out, and which were
being held by one or two other men. Cattle hate being alone, and it
was no easy matter to hold the first one or two that were cut out; but
soon they got a little herd of their own, and then they were
contented. When the cutting out had all been done, the calves were
branded, and all misadventures of the "calf wrestlers," the men who
seized, threw, and held each calf when roped by the mounted roper,
were hailed with yelling laughter. Then the animals which for one
reason or another it was desired to drive along with the round-up were
put into one herd and left in charge of a couple of night guards, and
the rest of us would loaf back to the wagon for supper and bed.
By this time I would have been accepted as one of the rest of the
outfit, and all strangeness would have passed off, the attitude of my
fellow cow-punchers being one of friendly forgiveness even toward my
spectacles. Night guards for the cattle herd were then assigned by the
captain of the wagon, or perhaps by the round-up foreman, according to
the needs of the case, the guards standing for two hours at a time
from eight in the evening till four in the morning. The first and last
watches were preferable, because sleep was not broken as in both of
the other two. If things went well, the cattle would soon bed down and
nothing further would occur until morning, when there was a repetition
of the work, the wagon moving each day eight or ten miles to some
appointed camping-place.
Each man would picket his night horse near the wagon, usually choosing
the quietest animal in his string for that purpose, because to saddle
and mount a "mean" horse at night is not pleasant. When utterly tired,
it was hard to have to get up for one's trick at night herd.
Nevertheless, on ordinary nights the two hours round the cattle in the
still darkness were pleasant. The loneliness, under the vast empty
sky, and the silence, in which the breathing of the cattle sounded
loud, and the alert readiness to meet any emergency which might
suddenly arise out of the formless night, all combined to give one a
sense of subdued interest. Then, one soon got to know the cattle of
marked individuality, the ones that led the others into mischief; and
one also grew to recognize the traits they all possessed in common,
and the impulses which, for instance, made a whole herd get up towards
midnight, each beast turning round and then lying down again. But by
the end of the watch each rider had studied the cattle until it grew
monotonous, and heartily welcomed his relief guard. A newcomer, of
course, had any amount to learn, and sometimes the simplest things
were those which brought him to grief.
One night early in my career I failed satisfactorily to identify the
direction in which I was to go in order to reach the night herd. It
was a pitch-dark night. I managed to get started wrong, and I never
found either the herd or the wagon again until sunrise, when I was
greeted with withering scorn by the injured cow-puncher, who had been
obliged to stand double guard because I failed to relieve him.
There were other misadventures that I met with where the excuse was
greater. The punchers on night guard usually rode round the cattle in
reverse directions; calling and singing to them if the beasts seemed
restless, to keep them quiet. On rare occasions something happened
that made the cattle stampede, and then the duty of the riders was to
keep with them as long as possible and try gradually to get control of
them.
One night there was a heavy storm, and all of us who were at the
wagons were obliged to turn out hastily to help the night herders.
After a while there was a terrific peal of thunder, the lightning
struck right by the herd, and away all the beasts went, heads and
horns and tails in the air. For a minute or two I could make out
nothing except the dark forms of the beasts running on every side of
me, and I should have been very sorry if my horse had stumbled, for
those behind would have trodden me down. Then the herd split, part
going to one side, while the other part seemingly kept straight ahead,
and I galloped as hard as ever beside them. I was trying to reach the
point—the leading animals—in order to turn them, when suddenly there
was a tremendous splashing in front. I could dimly make out that the
cattle immediately ahead and to one side of me were disappearing, and
the next moment the horse and I went off a cut bank into the Little
Missouri. I bent away back in the saddle, and though the horse almost
went down he just recovered himself, and, plunging and struggling
through water and quicksand, we made the other side. Here I discovered
that there was another cowboy with the same part of the herd that I
was with; but almost immediately we separated. I galloped hard through
a bottom covered with big cottonwood trees, and stopped the part of
the herd that I was with, but very soon they broke on me again, and
repeated this twice. Finally toward morning the few I had left came to
a halt.
It had been raining hard for some time. I got off my horse and leaned
against a tree, but before long the infernal cattle started on again,
and I had to ride after them. Dawn came soon after this, and I was
able to make out where I was and head the cattle back, collecting
other little bunches as I went. After a while I came on a cowboy on
foot carrying his saddle on his head. He was my companion of the
previous night. His horse had gone full speed into a tree and killed
itself, the man, however, not being hurt. I could not help him, as I
had all I could do to handle the cattle. When I got them to the wagon,
most of the other men had already come in and the riders were just
starting on the long circle. One of the men changed my horse for me
while I ate a hasty breakfast, and then we were off for the day's
work.
As only about half of the night herd had been brought back, the circle
riding was particularly heavy, and it was ten hours before we were
back at the wagon. We then changed horses again and worked the whole
herd until after sunset, finishing just as it grew too dark to do
anything more. By this time I had been nearly forty hours in the
saddle, changing horses five times, and my clothes had thoroughly
dried on me, and I fell asleep as soon as I touched the bedding.
Fortunately some men who had gotten in late in the morning had had
their sleep during the daytime, so that the rest of us escaped night
guard and were not called until four next morning. Nobody ever gets
enough sleep on a round-up.
The above was the longest number of consecutive hours I ever had to be
in the saddle. But, as I have said, I changed horses five times, and
it is a great lightening of labor for a rider to have a fresh horse.
Once when with Sylvane Ferris I spent about sixteen hours on one
horse, riding seventy or eighty miles. The round-up had reached a
place called the ox-bow of the Little Missouri, and we had to ride
there, do some work around the cattle, and ride back.
Another time I was twenty-four hours on horseback in company with
Merrifield without changing horses. On this occasion we did not travel
fast. We had been coming back with the wagon from a hunting trip in
the Big Horn Mountains. The team was fagged out, and we were tired of
walking at a snail's pace beside it. When we reached country that the
driver thoroughly knew, we thought it safe to leave him, and we loped
in one night across a distance which it took the wagon the three
following days to cover. It was a beautiful moonlight night, and the
ride was delightful. All day long we had plodded at a walk, weary and
hot. At supper time we had rested two or three hours, and the tough
little riding horses seemed as fresh as ever. It was in September. As
we rode out of the circle of the firelight, the air was cool in our
faces. Under the bright moonlight, and then under the starlight, we
loped and cantered mile after mile over the high prairie. We passed
bands of antelope and herds of long-horn Texas cattle, and at last,
just as the first red beams of the sun flamed over the bluffs in front
of us, we rode down into the valley of the Little Missouri, where our
ranch house stood.
I never became a good roper, nor more than an average rider, according
to ranch standards. Of course a man on a ranch has to ride a good many
bad horses, and is bound to encounter a certain number of accidents,
and of these I had my share, at one time cracking a rib, and on
another occasion the point of my shoulder. We were hundreds of miles
from a doctor, and each time, as I was on the round-up, I had to get
through my work for the next few weeks as best I could, until the
injury healed of itself. When I had the opportunity I broke my own
horses, doing it gently and gradually and spending much time over it,
and choosing the horses that seemed gentle to begin with. With these
horses I never had any difficulty. But frequently there was neither
time nor opportunity to handle our mounts so elaborately. We might get
a band of horses, each having been bridled and saddled two or three
times, but none of them having been broken beyond the extent implied
in this bridling and saddling. Then each of us in succession would
choose a horse (for his string), I as owner of the ranch being given
the first choice on each round, so to speak. The first time I was ever
on a round-up Sylvane Ferris, Merrifield, Meyer, and I each chose his
string in this fashion. Three or four of the animals I got were not
easy to ride. The effort both to ride them and to look as if I enjoyed
doing so, on some cool morning when my grinning cowboy friends had
gathered round "to see whether the high-headed bay could buck the boss
off," doubtless was of benefit to me, but lacked much of being
enjoyable. The time I smashed my rib I was bucked off on a stone. The
time I hurt the point of my shoulder I was riding a big, sulky horse
named Ben Butler, which went over backwards with me. When we got up it
still refused to go anywhere; so, while I sat it, Sylvane Ferris and
George Meyer got their ropes on its neck and dragged it a few hundred
yards, choking but stubborn, all four feet firmly planted and plowing
the ground. When they released the ropes it lay down and wouldn't get
up. The round-up had started; so Sylvane gave me his horse, Baldy,
which sometimes bucked but never went over backwards, and he got on
the now rearisen Ben Butler. To my discomfiture Ben started quietly
beside us, while Sylvane remarked, "Why, there's nothing the matter
with this horse; he's a plumb gentle horse." Then Ben fell slightly
behind and I heard Sylvane again, "That's all right! Come along! Here,
you! Go on, you! Hi, hi, fellows, help me out! he's lying on me!" Sure
enough, he was; and when we dragged Sylvane from under him the first
thing the rescued Sylvane did was to execute a war-dance, spurs and
all, on the iniquitous Ben. We could do nothing with him that day;
subsequently we got him so that we could ride him; but he never became
a nice saddle-horse.
As with all other forms of work, so on the round-up, a man of ordinary
power, who nevertheless does not shirk things merely because they are
disagreeable or irksome, soon earns his place. There were crack riders
and ropers who, just because they felt such overweening pride in their
own prowess, were not really very valuable men. Continually on the
circles a cow or a calf would get into some thick patch of bulberry
bush and refuse to come out; or when it was getting late we would pass
some bad lands that would probably not contain cattle, but might; or a
steer would turn fighting mad, or a calf grow tired and want to lie
down. If in such a case the man steadily persists in doing the
unattractive thing, and after two hours of exasperation and harassment
does finally get the cow out, and keep her out, of the bulberry
bushes, and drives her to the wagon, or finds some animals that have
been passed by in the fourth or fifth patch of bad lands he hunts
through, or gets the calf up on his saddle and takes it in anyhow, the
foreman soon grows to treat him as having his uses and as being an
asset of worth in the round-up, even though neither a fancy roper nor
a fancy rider.
When at the Progressive Convention last August, I met George Meyer for
the first time in many years, and he recalled to me an incident on one
round-up where we happened to be thrown together while driving some
cows and calves to camp. When the camp was only just across the river,
two of the calves positively refused to go any further. He took one of
them in his arms, and after some hazardous maneuvering managed to get
on his horse, in spite of the objections of the latter, and rode into
the river. My calf was too big for such treatment, so in despair I
roped it, intending to drag it over. However, as soon as I roped it,
the calf started bouncing and bleating, and, owing to some lack of
dexterity on my part, suddenly swung round the rear of the horse,
bringing the rope under his tail. Down went the tail tight, and the
horse "went into figures," as the cow-puncher phrase of that day was.
There was a cut bank about four feet high on the hither side of the
river, and over this the horse bucked. We went into the water with a
splash. With a "pluck" the calf followed, described a parabola in the
air, and landed beside us. Fortunately, this took the rope out from
under the horse's tail, but left him thoroughly frightened. He could
not do much bucking in the stream, for there were one or two places
where we had to swim, and the shallows were either sandy or muddy; but
across we went, at speed, and the calf made a wake like Pharaoh's army
in the Red Sea.
On several occasions we had to fight fire. In the geography books of
my youth prairie fires were always portrayed as taking place in long
grass, and all living things ran before them. On the Northern cattle
plains the grass was never long enough to be a source of danger to man
or beast. The fires were nothing like the forest fires in the Northern
woods. But they destroyed large quantities of feed, and we had to stop
them where possible. The process we usually followed was to kill a
steer, split it in two lengthwise, and then have two riders drag each
half-steer, the rope of one running from his saddle-horn to the front
leg, and that of the other to the hind leg. One of the men would spur
his horse over or through the line of fire, and the two would then
ride forward, dragging the steer bloody side downward along the line
of flame, men following on foot with slickers or wet horse-blankets,
to beat out any flickering blaze that was still left. It was exciting
work, for the fire and the twitching and plucking of the ox carcass
over the uneven ground maddened the fierce little horses so that it
was necessary to do some riding in order to keep them to their work.
After a while it also became very exhausting, the thirst and fatigue
being great, as, with parched lips and blackened from head to foot, we
toiled at our task.
In those years the Stockman's Association of Montana was a powerful
body. I was the delegate to it from the Little Missouri. The meetings
that I attended were held in Miles City, at that time a typical cow
town. Stockmen of all kinds attended, including the biggest men in the
stock business, men like old Conrad Kohrs, who was and is the finest
type of pioneer in all the Rocky Mountain country; and Granville
Stewart, who was afterwards appointed Minister by Cleveland, I think
to the Argentine; and "Hashknife" Simpson, a Texan who had brought his
cattle, the Hashknife brand, up the trail into our country. He and I
grew to be great friends. I can see him now the first time we met,
grinning at me as, none too comfortable, I sat a half-broken horse at
the edge of a cattle herd we were working. His son Sloan Simpson went
to Harvard, was one of the first-class men in my regiment, and
afterwards held my commission as Postmaster at Dallas.
At the stockmen's meeting in Miles City, in addition to the big
stockmen, there were always hundreds of cowboys galloping up and down
the wide dusty streets at every hour of the day and night. It was a
picturesque sight during the three days the meetings lasted. There was
always at least one big dance at the hotel. There were few dress
suits, but there was perfect decorum at the dance, and in the square
dances most of the men knew the figures far better than I did. With
such a crowd in town, sleeping accommodations of any sort were at a
premium, and in the hotel there were two men in every bed. On one
occasion I had a roommate whom I never saw, because he always went to
bed much later than I did and I always got up much earlier than he
did. On the last day, however, he rose at the same time and I saw that
he was a man I knew named Carter, and nicknamed "Modesty" Carter. He
was a stalwart, good-looking fellow, and I was sorry when later I
heard that he had been killed in a shooting row.
When I went West, the last great Indian wars had just come to an end,
but there were still sporadic outbreaks here and there, and
occasionally bands of marauding young braves were a menace to outlying
and lonely settlements. Many of the white men were themselves lawless
and brutal, and prone to commit outrages on the Indians.
Unfortunately, each race tended to hold all the members of the other
race responsible for the misdeeds of a few, so that the crime of the
miscreant, red or white, who committed the original outrage too often
invited retaliation upon entirely innocent people, and this action
would in its turn arouse bitter feeling which found vent in still more
indiscriminate retaliation. The first year I was on the Little
Missouri some Sioux bucks ran off all the horses of a buffalo-hunter's
outfit. One of the buffalo-hunters tried to get even by stealing the
horses of a Cheyenne hunting party, and when pursued made for a cow
camp, with, as a result, a long-range skirmish between the cowboys and
the Cheyennes. One of the latter was wounded; but this particular
wounded man seemed to have more sense than the other participants in
the chain of wrong-doing, and discriminated among the whites. He came
into our camp and had his wound dressed.
A year later I was at a desolate little mud road ranch on the Deadwood
trail. It was kept by a very capable and very forceful woman, with
sound ideas of justice and abundantly well able to hold her own. Her
husband was a worthless devil, who finally got drunk on some whisky he
obtained from an outfit of Missouri bull-whackers—that is,
freighters, driving ox wagons. Under the stimulus of the whisky he
picked a quarrel with his wife and attempted to beat her. She knocked
him down with a stove-lid lifter, and the admiring bull-whackers bore
him off, leaving the lady in full possession of the ranch. When I
visited her she had a man named Crow Joe working for her, a slab-
sided, shifty-eyed person who later, as I heard my foreman explain,
"skipped the country with a bunch of horses." The mistress of the
ranch made first-class buckskin shirts of great durability. The one
she made for me, and which I used for years, was used by one of my
sons in Arizona a couple of winters ago. I had ridden down into the
country after some lost horses, and visited the ranch to get her to
make me the buckskin shirt in question. There were, at the moment,
three Indians there, Sioux, well behaved and self-respecting, and she
explained to me that they had been resting there waiting for dinner,
and that a white man had come along and tried to run off their horses.
The Indians were on the lookout, however, and, running out, they
caught the man; but, after retaking their horses and depriving him of
his gun, they let him go. "I don't see why they let him go," exclaimed
my hostess. "I don't believe in stealing Indians' horses any more than
white folks'; so I told 'em they could go along and hang him—I'd
never cheep. Anyhow, I won't charge them anything for their dinner,"
concluded my hostess. She was in advance of the usual morality of the
time and place, which drew a sharp line between stealing citizens'
horses and stealing horses from the Government or the Indians.
A fairly decent citizen, Jap Hunt, who long ago met a violent death,
exemplified this attitude towards Indians in some remarks I once heard
him make. He had started a horse ranch, and had quite honestly
purchased a number of broken-down horses of different brands, with the
view of doctoring them and selling them again. About this time there
had been much horse-stealing and cattle-killing in our Territory and
in Montana, and under the direction of some of the big cattle-growers
a committee of vigilantes had been organized to take action against
the rustlers, as the horse thieves and cattle thieves were called. The
vigilantes, or stranglers, as they were locally known, did their work
thoroughly; but, as always happens with bodies of the kind, toward the
end they grew reckless in their actions, paid off private grudges, and
hung men on slight provocation. Riding into Jap Hunt's ranch, they
nearly hung him because he had so many horses of different brands. He
was finally let off. He was much upset by the incident, and explained
again and again, "The idea of saying that I was a horse thief! Why, I
never stole a horse in my life—leastways from a white man. I don't
count Indians nor the Government, of course." Jap had been reared
among men still in the stage of tribal morality, and while they
recognized their obligations to one another, both the Government and
the Indians seemed alien bodies, in regard to which the laws of
morality did not apply.
On the other hand, parties of savage young bucks would treat lonely
settlers just as badly, and in addition sometimes murder them. Such a
party was generally composed of young fellows burning to distinguish
themselves. Some one of their number would have obtained a pass from
the Indian Agent allowing him to travel off the reservation, which
pass would be flourished whenever their action was questioned by
bodies of whites of equal strength. I once had a trifling encounter
with such a band. I was making my way along the edge of the bad lands,
northward from my lower ranch, and was just crossing a plateau when
five Indians rode up over the further rim. The instant they saw me
they whipped out their guns and raced full speed at me, yelling and
flogging their horses. I was on a favorite horse, Manitou, who was a
wise old fellow, with nerves not to be shaken by anything. I at once
leaped off him and stood with my rifle ready.
It was possible that the Indians were merely making a bluff and
intended no mischief. But I did not like their actions, and I thought
it likely that if I allowed them to get hold of me they would at least
take my horse and rifle, and possibly kill me. So I waited until they
were a hundred yards off and then drew a bead on the first. Indians—
and, for the matter of that, white men—do not like to ride in on a
man who is cool and means shooting, and in a twinkling every man was
lying over the side of his horse, and all five had turned and were
galloping backwards, having altered their course as quickly as so many
teal ducks.
After this one of them made the peace sign, with his blanket first,
and then, as he rode toward me, with his open hand. I halted him at a
fair distance and asked him what he wanted. He exclaimed, "How! Me
good Injun, me good Injun," and tried to show me the dirty piece of
paper on which his agency pass was written. I told him with sincerity
that I was glad that he was a good Indian, but that he must not come
any closer. He then asked for sugar and tobacco. I told him I had
none. Another Indian began slowly drifting toward me in spite of my
calling out to keep back, so I once more aimed with my rifle,
whereupon both Indians slipped to the other side of their horses and
galloped off, with oaths that did credit to at least one side of their
acquaintance with English. I now mounted and pushed over the plateau
on to the open prairie. In those days an Indian, although not as good
a shot as a white man, was infinitely better at crawling under and
taking advantage of cover; and the worst thing a white man could do
was to get into cover, whereas out in the open if he kept his head he
had a good chance of standing off even half a dozen assailants. The
Indians accompanied me for a couple of miles. Then I reached the open
prairie, and resumed my northward ride, not being further molested.
In the old days in the ranch country we depended upon game for fresh
meat. Nobody liked to kill a beef, and although now and then a
maverick yearling might be killed on the round-up, most of us looked
askance at the deed, because if the practice of beef-killing was ever
allowed to start, the rustlers—the horse thieves and cattle thieves—
would be sure to seize on it as an excuse for general slaughter.
Getting meat for the ranch usually devolved upon me. I almost always
carried a rifle when I rode, either in a scabbard under my thigh, or
across the pommel. Often I would pick up a deer or antelope while
about my regular work, when visiting a line camp or riding after the
cattle. At other times I would make a day's trip after them. In the
fall we sometimes took a wagon and made a week's hunt, returning with
eight or ten deer carcasses, and perhaps an elk or a mountain sheep as
well. I never became more than a fair hunter, and at times I had most
exasperating experiences, either failing to see game which I ought to
have seen, or committing some blunder in the stalk, or failing to kill
when I fired. Looking back, I am inclined to say that if I had any
good quality as a hunter it was that of perseverance. "It is dogged
that does it" in hunting as in many other things. Unless in wholly
exceptional cases, when we were very hungry, I never killed anything
but bucks.
Occasionally I made long trips away from the ranch and among the Rocky
Mountains with my ranch foreman Merrifield; or in later years with
Tazewell Woody, John Willis, or John Goff. We hunted bears, both the
black and the grizzly, cougars and wolves, and moose, wapiti, and
white goat. On one of these trips I killed a bison bull, and I also
killed a bison bull on the Little Missouri some fifty miles south of
my ranch on a trip which Joe Ferris and I took together. It was rather
a rough trip. Each of us carried only his slicker behind him on the
saddle, with some flour and bacon done up in it. We met with all kinds
of misadventures. Finally one night, when we were sleeping by a slimy
little prairie pool where there was not a stick of wood, we had to tie
the horses to the horns of our saddles; and then we went to sleep with
our heads on the saddles. In the middle of the night something
stampeded the horses, and away they went, with the saddles after them.
As we jumped to our feet Joe eyed me with an evident suspicion that I
was the Jonah of the party, and said: "O Lord! I've never done
anything to deserve this. Did you ever do anything to deserve this?"
In addition to my private duties, I sometimes served as deputy sheriff
for the northern end of our county. The sheriff and I crisscrossed in
our public and private relations. He often worked for me as a hired
hand at the same time that I was his deputy. His name, or at least the
name he went by, was Bill Jones, and as there were in the neighborhood
several Bill Joneses—Three Seven Bill Jones, Texas Bill Jones, and
the like—the sheriff was known as Hell Roaring Bill Jones. He was a
thorough frontiersman, excellent in all kinds of emergencies, and a
very game man. I became much attached to him. He was a thoroughly good
citizen when sober, but he was a little wild when drunk.
Unfortunately, toward the end of his life he got to drinking very
heavily. When, in 1905, John Burroughs and I visited the Yellowstone
Park, poor Bill Jones, very much down in the world, was driving a team
in Gardiner outside the park. I had looked forward to seeing him, and
he was equally anxious to see me. He kept telling his cronies of our
intimacy and of what we were going to do together, and then got
drinking; and the result was that by the time I reached Gardiner he
had to be carried out and left in the sage-brush. When I came out of
the park, I sent on in advance to tell them to be sure to keep him
sober, and they did so. But it was a rather sad interview. The old
fellow had gone to pieces, and soon after I left he got lost in a
blizzard and was dead when they found him.
Bill Jones was a gun-fighter and also a good man with his fists. On
one occasion there was an election in town. There had been many
threats that the party of disorder would import section hands from the
neighboring railway stations to down our side. I did not reach Medora,
the forlorn little cattle town which was our county seat, until the
election was well under way. I then asked one of my friends if there
had been any disorder. Bill Jones was standing by. "Disorder hell!"
said my friend. "Bill Jones just stood there with one hand on his gun
and the other pointing over toward the new jail whenever any man who
didn't have a right to vote came near the polls. There was only one of
them tried to vote, and Bill knocked him down. Lord!" added my friend,
meditatively, "the way that man fell!" "Well," struck in Bill Jones,
"if he hadn't fell I'd have walked round behind him to see what was
propping him up!"
In the days when I lived on the ranch I usually spent most of the
winter in the East, and when I returned in the early spring I was
always interested in finding out what had happened since my departure.
On one occasion I was met by Bill Jones and Sylvane Ferris, and in the
course of our conversation they mentioned "the lunatic." This led to a
question on my part, and Sylvane Ferris began the story: "Well, you
see, he was on a train and he shot the newsboy. At first they weren't
going to do anything to him, for they thought he just had it in for
the newsboy. But then somebody said, 'Why, he's plumb crazy, and he's
liable to shoot any of us!' and then they threw him off the train. It
was here at Medora, and they asked if anybody would take care of him,
and Bill Jones said he would, because he was the sheriff and the jail
had two rooms, and he was living in one and would put the lunatic in
the other." Here Bill Jones interrupted: "Yes, and more fool me! I
wouldn't take charge of another lunatic if the whole county asked me.
Why" (with the air of a man announcing an astounding discovery), "that
lunatic didn't have his right senses! He wouldn't eat, till me and
Snyder got him down on the shavings and made him eat." Snyder was a
huge, happy-go-lucky, kind-hearted Pennsylvania Dutchman, and was Bill
Jones's chief deputy. Bill continued: "You know, Snyder's soft-
hearted, he is. Well, he'd think that lunatic looked peaked, and he'd
take him out for an airing. Then the boys would get joshing him as to
how much start he could give him over the prairie and catch him
again." Apparently the amount of the start given the lunatic depended
upon the amount of the bet to which the joshing led up. I asked Bill
what he would have done if Snyder hadn't caught the lunatic. This was
evidently a new idea, and he responded that Snyder always did catch
him. "Well, but suppose he hadn't caught him?" "Well," said Bill
Jones, "if Snyder hadn't caught the lunatic, I'd have whaled hell out
of Snyder!"
Under these circumstances Snyder ran his best and always did catch the
patient. It must not be gathered from this that the lunatic was badly
treated. He was well treated. He become greatly attached to both Bill
Jones and Snyder, and he objected strongly when, after the frontier
theory of treatment of the insane had received a full trial, he was
finally sent off to the territorial capital. It was merely that all
the relations of life in that place and day were so managed as to give
ample opportunity for the expression of individuality, whether in
sheriff or ranchman. The local practical joker once attempted to have
some fun at the expense of the lunatic, and Bill Jones described the
result. "You know Bixby, don't you? Well," with deep disapproval,
"Bixby thinks he is funny, he does. He'd come and he'd wake that
lunatic up at night, and I'd have to get up and soothe him. I fixed
Bixby all right, though. I fastened a rope on the latch, and next time
Bixby came I let the lunatic out on him. He 'most bit Bixby's nose
off. I learned Bixby!"
Bill Jones had been unconventional in other relations besides that of
sheriff. He once casually mentioned to me that he had served on the
police force of Bismarck, but he had left because he "beat the Mayor
over the head with his gun one day." He added: "The Mayor, he didn't
mind it, but the Superintendent of Police said he guessed I'd better
resign." His feeling, obviously, was that the Superintendent of Police
was a martinet, unfit to take large views of life.
It was while with Bill Jones that I first made acquaintance with Seth
Bullock. Seth was at that time sheriff in the Black Hills district,
and a man he had wanted—a horse thief—I finally got, I being at the
time deputy sheriff two or three hundred miles to the north. The man
went by a nickname which I will call "Crazy Steve"; a year or two
afterwards I received a letter asking about him from his uncle, a
thoroughly respectable man in a Western State; and later this uncle
and I met at Washington when I was President and he a United States
Senator. It was some time after "Steve's" capture that I went down to
Deadwood on business, Sylvane Ferris and I on horseback, while Bill
Jones drove the wagon. At a little town, Spearfish, I think, after
crossing the last eighty or ninety miles of gumbo prairies, we met
Seth Bullock. We had had rather a rough trip, and had lain out for a
fortnight, so I suppose we looked somewhat unkempt. Seth received us
with rather distant courtesy at first, but unbent when he found out
who we were, remarking, "You see, by your looks I thought you were
some kind of a tin-horn gambling outfit, and that I might have to keep
an eye on you!" He then inquired after the capture of "Steve"—with a
little of the air of one sportsman when another has shot a quail that
either might have claimed—"My bird, I believe?" Later Seth Bullock
became, and has ever since remained, one of my stanchest and most
valued friends. He served as Marshal for South Dakota under me as
President. When, after the close of my term, I went to Africa, on
getting back to Europe I cabled Seth Bullock to bring over Mrs.
Bullock and meet me in London, which he did; by that time I felt that
I just had to meet my own people, who spoke my neighborhood dialect.
When serving as deputy sheriff I was impressed with the advantage the
officer of the law has over ordinary wrong-doers, provided he
thoroughly knows his own mind. There are exceptional outlaws, men with
a price on their heads and of remarkable prowess, who are utterly
indifferent to taking life, and whose warfare against society is as
open as that of a savage on the war-path. The law officer has no
advantage whatever over these men save what his own prowess may—or
may not—give him. Such a man was Billy the Kid, the notorious man-
killer and desperado of New Mexico, who was himself finally slain by a
friend of mine, Pat Garrett, whom, when I was President, I made
collector of customs at El Paso. But the ordinary criminal, even when
murderously inclined, feels just a moment's hesitation as to whether
he cares to kill an officer of the law engaged in his duty. I took in
more than one man who was probably a better man than I was with both
rifle and revolver; but in each case I knew just what I wanted to do,
and, like David Harum, I "did it first," whereas the fraction of a
second that the other man hesitated put him in a position where it was
useless for him to resist.
I owe more than I can ever express to the West, which of course means
to the men and women I met in the West. There were a few people of bad
type in my neighborhood—that would be true of every group of men,
even in a theological seminary—but I could not speak with too great
affection and respect of the great majority of my friends, the hard-
working men and women who dwelt for a space of perhaps a hundred and
fifty miles along the Little Missouri. I was always as welcome at
their houses as they were at mine. Everybody worked, everybody was
willing to help everybody else, and yet nobody asked any favors. The
same thing was true of the people whom I got to know fifty miles east
and fifty miles west of my own range, and of the men I met on the
round-ups. They soon accepted me as a friend and fellow-worker who
stood on an equal footing with them, and I believe the most of them
have kept their feeling for me ever since. No guests were ever more
welcome at the White House than these old friends of the cattle
ranches and the cow camps—the men with whom I had ridden the long
circle and eaten at the tail-board of a chuck-wagon—whenever they
turned up at Washington during my Presidency. I remember one of them
who appeared at Washington one day just before lunch, a huge, powerful
man who, when I knew him, had been distinctly a fighting character. It
happened that on that day another old friend, the British Ambassador,
Mr. Bryce, was among those coming to lunch. Just before we went in I
turned to my cow-puncher friend and said to him with great solemnity,
"Remember, Jim, that if you shot at the feet of the British Ambassador
to make him dance, it would be likely to cause international
complications"; to which Jim responded with unaffected horror, "Why,
Colonel, I shouldn't think of it, I shouldn't think of it!"
Not only did the men and women whom I met in the cow country quite
unconsciously help me, by the insight which working and living with
them enabled me to get into the mind and soul of the average American
of the right type, but they helped me in another way. I made up my
mind that the men were of just the kind whom it would be well to have
with me if ever it became necessary to go to war. When the Spanish War
came, I gave this thought practical realization.
Fortunately, Wister and Remington, with pen and pencil, have made
these men live as long as our literature lives. I have sometimes been
asked if Wister's "Virginian" is not overdrawn; why, one of the men I
have mentioned in this chapter was in all essentials the Virginian in
real life, not only in his force but in his charm. Half of the men I
worked with or played with and half of the men who soldiered with me
afterwards in my regiment might have walked out of Wister's stories or
Remington's pictures.
There were bad characters in the Western country at that time, of
course, and under the conditions of life they were probably more
dangerous than they would have been elsewhere. I hardly ever had any
difficulty, however. I never went into a saloon, and in the little
hotels I kept out of the bar-room unless, as sometimes happened, the
bar-room was the only room on the lower floor except the dining-room.
I always endeavored to keep out of a quarrel until self-respect
forbade my making any further effort to avoid it, and I very rarely
had even the semblance of trouble.
Of course amusing incidents occurred now and then. Usually these took
place when I was hunting lost horses, for in hunting lost horses I was
ordinarily alone, and occasionally had to travel a hundred or a
hundred and fifty miles away from my own country. On one such occasion
I reached a little cow town long after dark, stabled my horse in an
empty outbuilding, and when I reached the hotel was informed in
response to my request for a bed that I could have the last one left,
as there was only one other man in it. The room to which I was shown
contained two double beds; one contained two men fast asleep, and the
other only one man, also asleep. This man proved to be a friend, one
of the Bill Joneses whom I have previously mentioned. I undressed
according to the fashion of the day and place, that is, I put my
trousers, boots, shaps, and gun down beside the bed, and turned in. A
couple of hours later I was awakened by the door being thrown open and
a lantern flashed in my face, the light gleaming on the muzzle of a
cocked .45. Another man said to the lantern-bearer, "It ain't him";
the next moment my bedfellow was covered with two guns, and addressed,
"Now, Bill, don't make a fuss, but come along quiet." "I'm not
thinking of making a fuss," said Bill. "That's right," was the answer;
"we're your friends; we don't want to hurt you; we just want you to
come along, you know why." And Bill pulled on his trousers and boots
and walked out with them. Up to this time there had not been a sound
from the other bed. Now a match was scratched, a candle lit, and one
of the men in the other bed looked round the room. At this point I
committed the breach of etiquette of asking questions. "I wonder why
they took Bill," I said. There was no answer, and I repeated, "I
wonder why they took Bill." "Well," said the man with the candle,
dryly, "I reckon they wanted him," and with that he blew out the
candle and conversation ceased. Later I discovered that Bill in a fit
of playfulness had held up the Northern Pacific train at a near-by
station by shooting at the feet of the conductor to make him dance.
This was purely a joke on Bill's part, but the Northern Pacific people
possessed a less robust sense of humor, and on their complaint the
United States Marshal was sent after Bill, on the ground that by
delaying the train he had interfered with the mails.
The only time I ever had serious trouble was at an even more primitive
little hotel than the one in question. It was also on an occasion when
I was out after lost horses. Below the hotel had merely a bar-room, a
dining-room, and a lean-to kitchen; above was a loft with fifteen or
twenty beds in it. It was late in the evening when I reached the
place. I heard one or two shots in the bar-room as I came up, and I
disliked going in. But there was nowhere else to go, and it was a cold
night. Inside the room were several men, who, including the bartender,
were wearing the kind of smile worn by men who are making believe to
like what they don't like. A shabby individual in a broad hat with a
cocked gun in each hand was walking up and down the floor talking with
strident profanity. He had evidently been shooting at the clock, which
had two or three holes in its face.
He was not a "bad man" of the really dangerous type, the true man-
killer type, but he was an objectionable creature, a would-be bad man,
a bully who for the moment was having things all his own way. As soon
as he saw me he hailed me as "Four eyes," in reference to my
spectacles, and said, "Four eyes is going to treat." I joined in the
laugh and got behind the stove and sat down, thinking to escape
notice. He followed me, however, and though I tried to pass it off as
a jest this merely made him more offensive, and he stood leaning over
me, a gun in each hand, using very foul language. He was foolish to
stand so near, and, moreover, his heels were close together, so that
his position was unstable. Accordingly, in response to his reiterated
command that I should set up the drinks, I said, "Well, if I've got
to, I've got to," and rose, looking past him.
As I rose, I struck quick and hard with my right just to one side of
the point of his jaw, hitting with my left as I straightened out, and
then again with my right. He fired the guns, but I do not know whether
this was merely a convulsive action of his hands or whether he was
trying to shoot at me. When he went down he struck the corner of the
bar with his head. It was not a case in which one could afford to take
chances, and if he had moved I was about to drop on his ribs with my
knees; but he was senseless. I took away his guns, and the other
people in the room, who were now loud in their denunciation of him,
hustled him out and put him in a shed. I got dinner as soon as
possible, sitting in a corner of the dining-room away from the
windows, and then went upstairs to bed where it was dark so that there
would be no chance of any one shooting at me from the outside.
However, nothing happened. When my assailant came to, he went down to
the station and left on a freight.
As I have said, most of the men of my regiment were just such men as
those I knew in the ranch country; indeed, some of my ranch friends
were in the regiment—Fred Herrig, the forest ranger, for instance, in
whose company I shot my biggest mountain ram. After the regiment was
disbanded the careers of certain of the men were diversified by odd
incidents. Our relations were of the friendliest, and, as they
explained, they felt "as if I was a father" to them. The
manifestations of this feeling were sometimes less attractive than the
phrase sounded, as it was chiefly used by the few who were behaving
like very bad children indeed. The great majority of the men when the
regiment disbanded took up the business of their lives where they had
dropped it a few months previously, and these men merely tried to help
me or help one another as the occasion arose; no man ever had more
cause to be proud of his regiment than I had of mine, both in war and
in peace. But there was a minority among them who in certain ways were
unsuited for a life of peaceful regularity, although often enough they
had been first-class soldiers.
It was from these men that letters came with a stereotyped opening
which always caused my heart to sink—"Dear Colonel: I write you
because I am in trouble." The trouble might take almost any form. One
correspondent continued: "I did not take the horse, but they say I
did." Another complained that his mother-in-law had put him in jail
for bigamy. In the case of another the incident was more markworthy. I
will call him Gritto. He wrote me a letter beginning: "Dear Colonel: I
write you because I am in trouble. I have shot a lady in the eye. But,
Colonel, I was not shooting at the lady. I was shooting at my wife,"
which he apparently regarded as a sufficient excuse as between men of
the world. I answered that I drew the line at shooting at ladies, and
did not hear any more of the incident for several years.
Then, while I was President, a member of the regiment, Major
Llewellyn, who was Federal District Attorney under me in New Mexico,
wrote me a letter filled, as his letters usually were, with bits of
interesting gossip about the comrades. It ran in part as follows:
"Since I last wrote you Comrade Ritchie has killed a man in Colorado.
I understand that the comrade was playing a poker game, and the man
sat into the game and used such language that Comrade Ritchie had to
shoot. Comrade Webb has killed two men in Beaver, Arizona. Comrade
Webb is in the Forest Service, and the killing was in the line of
professional duty. I was out at the penitentiary the other day and saw
Comrade Gritto, who, you may remember, was put there for shooting his
sister-in-law [this was the first information I had had as to the
identity of the lady who was shot in the eye]. Since he was in there
Comrade Boyne has run off to old Mexico with his (Gritto's) wife, and
the people of Grant County think he ought to be let out." Evidently
the sporting instincts of the people of Grant County had been roused,
and they felt that, as Comrade Boyne had had a fair start, the other
comrade should be let out in order to see what would happen.
The men of the regiment always enthusiastically helped me when I was
running for office. On one occasion Buck Taylor, of Texas, accompanied
me on a trip and made a speech for me. The crowd took to his speech
from the beginning and so did I, until the peroration, which ran as
follows: "My fellow-citizens, vote for my Colonel! vote for my
Colonel! /and he will lead you, as he led us, like sheep to the
slaughter/!" This hardly seemed a tribute to my military skill; but it
delighted the crowd, and as far as I could tell did me nothing but
good.
On another tour, when I was running for Vice-President, a member of
the regiment who was along on the train got into a discussion with a
Populist editor who had expressed an unfavorable estimate of my
character, and in the course of the discussion shot the editor—not
fatally. We had to leave him to be tried, and as he had no money I
left him $150 to hire counsel—having borrowed the money from Senator
Wolcott, of Colorado, who was also with me. After election I received
from my friend a letter running: "Dear Colonel: I find I will not have
to use that $150 you lent me, as we have elected our candidate for
District Attorney. So I have used it to settle a horse transaction in
which I unfortunately became involved." A few weeks later, however, I
received a heartbroken letter setting forth the fact that the District
Attorney—whom he evidently felt to be a cold-blooded formalist—had
put him in jail. Then the affair dropped out of sight until two or
three years later, when as President I visited a town in another
State, and the leaders of the delegation which received me included
both my correspondent and the editor, now fast friends, and both of
them ardent supporters of mine.
At one of the regimental reunions a man, who had been an excellent
soldier, in greeting me mentioned how glad he was that the judge had
let him out in time to get to the reunion. I asked what was the
matter, and he replied with some surprise: "Why, Colonel, don't you
know I had a difficulty with a gentleman, and . . . er . . . well, I
killed the gentleman. But you can see that the judge thought it was
all right or he wouldn't have let me go." Waiving the latter point, I
said: "How did it happen? How did you do it?" Misinterpreting my
question as showing an interest only in the technique of the
performance, the ex-puncher replied: "With a .38 on a .45 frame,
Colonel." I chuckled over the answer, and it became proverbial with my
family and some of my friends, including Seth Bullock. When I was shot
at Milwaukee, Seth Bullock wired an inquiry to which I responded that
it was all right, that the weapon was merely "a .38 on a .45 frame."
The telegram in some way became public, and puzzled outsiders. By the
way, both the men of my regiment and the friends I had made in the old
days in the West were themselves a little puzzled at the interest
shown in my making my speech after being shot. This was what they
expected, what they accepted as the right thing for a man to do under
the circumstances, a thing the non-performance of which would have
been discreditable rather than the performance being creditable. They
would not have expected a man to leave a battle, for instance, because
of being wounded in such fashion; and they saw no reason why he should
abandon a less important and less risky duty.
One of the best soldiers of my regiment was a huge man whom I made
marshal of a Rocky Mountain State. He had spent his hot and lusty
youth on the frontier during its viking age, and at that time had
naturally taken part in incidents which seemed queer to men
"accustomed to die decently of zymotic diseases." I told him that an
effort would doubtless be made to prevent his confirmation by the
Senate, and therefore that I wanted to know all the facts in his case.
Had he played faro? He had; but it was when everybody played faro, and
he had never played a brace game. Had he killed anybody? Yes, but it
was in Dodge City on occasions when he was deputy marshal or town
marshal, at a time when Dodge City, now the most peaceful of
communities, was the toughest town on the continent, and crowded with
man-killing outlaws and road agents; and he produced telegrams from
judges of high character testifying to the need of the actions he had
taken. Finally I said: "Now, Ben, how did you lose that half of your
ear?" To which, looking rather shy, he responded: "Well, Colonel, it
was bit off." "How did it happen, Ben?" "Well, you see, I was sent to
arrest a gentleman, and him and me mixed it up, and he bit off my
ear." "What did you do to the gentleman, Ben?" And Ben, looking more
coy than ever, responded: "Well, Colonel, we broke about even!" I
forebore to inquire what variety of mayhem he had committed on the
"gentleman." After considerable struggle I got him confirmed by the
Senate, and he made one of the best marshals in the entire service,
exactly as he had already made one of the best soldiers in the
regiment; and I never wish to see a better citizen, nor a man in whom
I would more implicitly trust in every way.
When, in 1900, I was nominated for Vice-President, I was sent by the
National Committee on a trip into the States of the high plains and
the Rocky Mountains. These had all gone overwhelmingly for Mr. Bryan
on the free-silver issue four years previously, and it was thought
that I, because of my knowledge of and acquaintanceship with the
people, might accomplish something towards bringing them back into
line. It was an interesting trip, and the monotony usually attendant
upon such a campaign of political speaking was diversified in vivid
fashion by occasional hostile audiences. One or two of the meetings
ended in riots. One meeting was finally broken up by a mob; everybody
fought so that the speaking had to stop. Soon after this we reached
another town where we were told there might be trouble. Here the local
committee included an old and valued friend, a "two-gun" man of
repute, who was not in the least quarrelsome, but who always kept his
word. We marched round to the local opera-house, which was packed with
a mass of men, many of them rather rough-looking. My friend the two-
gun man sat immediately behind me, a gun on each hip, his arms folded,
looking at the audience; fixing his gaze with instant intentness on
any section of the house from which there came so much as a whisper.
The audience listened to me with rapt attention. At the end, with a
pride in my rhetorical powers which proceeded from a misunderstanding
of the situation, I remarked to the chairman: "I held that audience
well; there wasn't an interruption." To which the chairman replied:
"Interruption? Well, I guess not! Seth had sent round word that if any
son of a gun peeped he'd kill him!"
There was one bit of frontier philosophy which I should like to see
imitated in more advanced communities. Certain crimes of revolting
baseness and cruelty were never forgiven. But in the case of ordinary
offenses, the man who had served his term and who then tried to make
good was given a fair chance; and of course this was equally true of
the women. Every one who has studied the subject at all is only too
well aware that the world offsets the readiness with which it condones
a crime for which a man escapes punishment, by its unforgiving
relentlessness to the often far less guilty man who /is/ punished, and
who therefore has made his atonement. On the frontier, if the man
honestly tried to behave himself there was generally a disposition to
give him fair play and a decent show. Several of the men I knew and
whom I particularly liked came in this class. There was one such man
in my regiment, a man who had served a term for robbery under arms,
and who had atoned for it by many years of fine performance of duty. I
put him in a high official position, and no man under me rendered
better service to the State, nor was there any man whom, as soldier,
as civil officer, as citizen, and as friend, I valued and respected—
and now value and respect—more.
Now I suppose some good people will gather from this that I favor men
who commit crimes. I certainly do not favor them. I have not a
particle of sympathy with the sentimentality—as I deem it, the
mawkishness—which overflows with foolish pity for the criminal and
cares not at all for the victim of the criminal. I am glad to see
wrong-doers punished. The punishment is an absolute necessity from the
standpoint of society; and I put the reformation of the criminal
second to the welfare of society. But I do desire to see the man or
woman who has paid the penalty and who wishes to reform given a
helping hand—surely every one of us who knows his own heart must know
that he too may stumble, and should be anxious to help his brother or
sister who has stumbled. When the criminal has been punished, if he
then shows a sincere desire to lead a decent and upright life, he
should be given the chance, he should be helped and not hindered; and
if he makes good, he should receive that respect from others which so
often aids in creating self-respect—the most invaluable of all
possessions.
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